Bodybuilding Online Guide

Buying a treadmill? There are so many brands and features to choose from. How do you know which treadmill is best for you?

This treadmill buyers guide will tell you exactly what to look for when buying your treadmill. Knowing this will help you choose the best treadmill for your fitness needs (and it might even save you some money!)

So here’s what to look at when choosing a treadmill:

Motor:

The motor is the heart of your treadmill. Motor power is measured by horsepower – HP. Unless your treadmill has a strong motor (at least 1.5 horsepower) you can quickly wear it out, even if only moderately walking.

When looking at motors and horsepower, there are two different ratings:

- Continuous Duty (which is the rating for steady, continual 24 hour motor use), and
- Peak Duty (which is the maximum power potential, but it cannot be maintained).

When looking at treadmills you want to know the Continuous Duty motor power. It’s recommended that you go with at least a 1.75 HP continuous duty (CD) motor (preferably higher).

For runners or those plotting heavy use of their treadmills, experts recommend at least a 2.5 – 3 HP continuous duty motor so that your motor doesn’t quickly burn out on you and end up costing you in expensive treadmill repairs.

Tip: Many cheaper treadmill brands will often give you the Peak Duty motor power (since it’s always higher than the Continuous Duty rating) just to impress unsuspecting buyers. Make sure you know the continuous duty rating when comparing units.

Frame:

There are two types of frames: aluminum or steel (NEVER plastic!). Steel is heavier than aluminum which potentially increases stability. But steel may also rust or corrode from sweat (unlike aluminum).

So there are advantages and disadvantages to both and it really boils down to a matter of personal choice. One thing to keep in mind but is that aluminum is more expensive than steel so it may be built into the price of the treadmill.

Belt:

Average treadbelt widths range from 17″ to 22″ and lengths from 51″ to 61″. Never go below a belt width of 16 ” and make sure that the belt is long enough to accomodate your stride.

If you are tall and/or have long legs, it’s better to go with a longer belt (54″ or more). Make sure you also consider anyone else who will be using the treadmill and their height as well.

Cushioning:

Treadmill cushioning is the ability of the treadmill to absorb the force of your step. Better cushioning means lower impact on your joints and ligaments. Cushioning is extremely vital as poor cushioning can cause injury and muscle strain.

Many quality treadmills have their own form of cushioning system to protect you. Make sure your treadmill has a quality cushioning system to protect your joints over the long run.

Stability:

According to Runner’s World, stability is the most vital quality in a treadmill. Stability is how smooth a ride the treadmill provides you. There should be no shaking or wobbling when you start to run.

Generally with treadmills you get what you pay for. For a high stability, high quality treadmill you should be willing to spend at least $1000, and certainly more if you plot on using it heavily. There’s no use spending $500-600 on something you’re frightened to use.

Console/Show:

Consider both the layout and user-friendliness of the information displays and controls. This is largely a matter of personal preference since some people want to see a constant show of calories burned or miles covered,etc.

For safety concerns, make sure the speed and incline controls are prominently showed and simple to reach.

Heart Rate Monitor/Control:

Again, this is largely a personal preference whether or not you want to monitor your heart rate. A heart rate monitor simply shows you at what rate your heart is beating while you work out.

Some people like to take a step up and get a heart rate control which can really adjust the treadmill pace to keep you in your target stout-burning zone.

Warranty:

Treadmill warranties vary across the board and again, you usually get what you pay for. Don’t waste your money buying an added warranty when most quality treadmills include a excellent warranty in the price already.

Tip: The warranty gives you a excellent thought of the quality of parts used in building the treadmill (ever wondered why those cheap department store brands only offer you 90 day warranties?).

A quality warranty will include at least 10 years on the frame, 3 years on the motor, 2 years on parts and 1 year on labor. (Keep in mind that the motor is usually the most expensive to fix).

Price:

A quality motorized treadmill is going to cost you at least $1000. The quality of treadmills (cushioning, construction, parts, quality) drops substantially once you go below $800.

According to expert Gregory Florez, spokesperson for the American Council on Exercise, “Just about anything under $900 is not made to be used over the long haul.”

There are ways to save on your treadmill of course (buy direct, online wholesalers, etc.) but the bottom line is that a treadmill is an investment in your health. It will last you 10 years or more so you really want to invest in a quality unit built to last.

Where to Buy A Treadmill:

There are a number of options here but they mainly fall into 2 categories:

1) Store
2) Online

- Store Advantages: You can really try out the treadmill.

- Store Disadvantages: You’ll probably pay more for the same treadmill you can get online simply because the store has overhead costs and salespeople to pay. Stores will also charge you for shipping and delivery and you’ll also pay sales tax.

- Internet Disadvantages: You can’t try out the treadmill

- Internet Advantages: You can save a lot of money buying direct from the manufacturer, sometimes $600 or more. You can usually get free shipping and save on sales tax too. Plus you have a larger selection of treadmill to choose from so you may be able to find a treadmill that is more suited to your needs.

It really comes down to what you’re comfortable with.

So that’s it! You now know what to look for when buying a treadmill. Just remember to take your time and select a treadmill that fits your fitness goals. And you’re guaranteed to find the best treadmill for you.

Ohiyo!

Hello again from the Far East on the West Coast, and greetings from the DOJO. This week, before I get in to the nuts and bolts of the treadmills and the ellipticals I work on, I’m going to start with a quick guide to how to choose a treadmill — well, how to choose a residential / home grade treadmill. Choosing a commercial treadmill tends to be a bit simpler — go Star Trac, Matrix, Landice or Life Fitness and, in spite of their fantastic ellipticals, avoid Precor treadmills. Precor is a fantastic company, they just don’t quite have treadmills down as well as the other companies. With the commercial treadmills it’s kind of like choosing between a BMW, a Mercedes and a Lexus. It’s all about bells and whistles more than performance…they’re all fantastic machines and we’ll talk about them another time.

Home treadmills are a tough sea to navigate for most buyers — there are so many different brands and they all look alike to outsiders. Luckily, over the past 20 or so years, I’ve had to repair just about every treadmill ever made. In other words, my pain will be your salvation!

My first piece of advice is: avoid anything and everything from Icon Health and Fitness. They’re the manufacturer of the units you’ll find at places like Sears — nothing against Sears, but the treadmills they sell tend to be on the lower end of the quality scale. Their treadmills seem to have specs that are too excellent to be right for their cost and, truth be told, they are. The ancient proverb, “you get what you pay for” comes in to play with them. Small motors with high RPMs to give them a perceived higher horsepower (most of their motors should really be rated at under 1.5 HP regardless of what they tell you — a motor the size of a soda can should not be powering a full sized treadmill!), lots of plastic pieces, tiny rollers, and generally unstable machines are par for the course for the Icon brands like Proform, Weslo, Healthrider and Image. Just stay away from them! There are better treadmills even at the more affordable prices that Icon tempts the unlearned consumer with.

On with translating the arcane lore that is treadmill purchasing for the lay person.

Let’s start with the motor. The first thing you want to do is make sure the motor is rated with “Continuous Duty.” Any sales person or manufacturer who gives you a “Peak” rating is trying to sell you a bag of magic beans. Peak is best described as the maximum a motor will perform at before it breaks down. What’s more imporant is: how the heck is that motor going to perform when you’re really using it? Another thing a shady salesperson might mention is that a common home circuit (120v/15amps) will only let you run about 2.5 HP and any motor larger than that is a waste of money. Technically that is right (about the amps vs. HP, not the waste of money), but the larger motors will tend to last longer as they are not running at the higher RPMs of a smaller motor. And, if nothing else, the larger the motor, the smoother the “ride.” A larger motor will allow you to run or walk on it without slipping.

The next thing to look at is the size of a treadmill’s rollers. The larger the rollers, the longer your belt will last and the better the running experience.

Next, and this is my favorite thing — especially when recommending cardio equipment to my in-laws — the warranty. Like anything else, the better the warranty the more piece of mind you will have. The 5 year parts warranty on Spirit treadmills, for example, is one of the best in the business. For me, the more faith a manufacturer has in its own product (i.e. the warranty), the more faith I have in that product. Of course, doing repairs I absolutely like the lower end warranties as it means more paying work for me!

What’s next? The weight and stability of the machine. There is nothing worse than getting on a treadmill and having it go back and forth, or shake, or, even worse, creak as you run on it. The heavier the unit the longer it will last. If you’re used to running on a treadmill at your local gym and then get on most home units, you’ll immediately notice the difference. You don’t want to be running around on something that feels like it is going to fall apart now do you? Don’t answer, that was a rhetorical treadmill question.

The tread and the deck are where most problems for treadmills happen. When the friction from your running builds up between the deck and the tread, the badness starts. Stick with the 4-ply belts/treads that help to reduce the amount of friction, and look at units with reversable, phenolic wax coated decks. Reversable decks let you flip over your running surface to use the opposite side when the original wears down. It’s like having a free second deck if you wear out the first one.

Programs. Don’t be fooled by this. Most people only wind up using 3-4 programs. If the treadmill has 20, that’s cool, but you’ll rarely use them. If you do heart rate training, then heart rate control is fantastic. If not, it’s just an extra you’ll never use…like the clock you’ve never set on your VCR.

Speed and Incline are worth talking about. Most treadmills can go up to about 10 miles per hour and a 10 degree incline. Don’t let speed or incline become a deciding factor unless you’re doing a lot of high speed or high incline training. Obviously, electronically controlled speed and incline are the way to go. If those feature are manual just go on.

Finally, test out the shock absorbtion. You want to make sure you aren’t running on a hard surface. This is a “feel” thing more than a “scientific” one. If the deck is bouncy, go on. If the deck feels like running on concrete, go on. If the deck moves from side to side, go on. You want to find a deck that feels excellent, with just enough give and small to no lateral motion.

Beyond that fans, speakers, cup holders, magazine racks and even television sets on the treadmill’s console are all just icing on the cake. It’s better to get a excellent treadmill without a fan or TV and spend $50 to buy your own than to get a crappy, fully loaded treadmill which will eventually just become an expensive coat rack for dirty clothes.

Now, I know I alread typed “finally” but there is one last piece to consider: PRICE. You can only get what you can get but don’t be fooled into buying a lemon. There are decent (and some downright Fantastic) treadmills at just about every price point. I’ll go over some of the best, at least in my experience, treadmills in the under $1000 range in the next week.

Don’t despair, there is a excellent treadmill out there you can really afford